Ford ib5 gearbox oil

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Draining Ib5 gearbox

View Threaded. Sun 10 Feb Reply Report as offensive Link. Mon 11 Feb Tue 12 Feb Wed 13 Feb Thu 14 Feb Value my carmiles buy or sell? Elsewhere on. Money Saving Offers, Deals and Discounts. Keyless theft: What is it and how do you stop it? Hiring rather than buying? Our guide will save you money.Recently Asked Questions We've got a Defender. Should we hang onto it or sell it? I discovered that EVs are significantly heavier than the petrol counterparts. Aren't they supposed to be environmentally-friendly?

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Are there any reliable DSG transmissions used in Volkswagens? If so, which makes and models use them? My car struggles at 30mph but refuses to change down a gear - is this a common issue with modern autos?Hi I went and bought just 2 litres of transmission oil and found it takes 2. Thanks it's just cos I got specific oil and I need this done due to leaks in the selector which I'm going to replace and would mean waiting on more.

I'm worried about mixing different brands as have been reading it's not the best idea. Be aware that this type of IB5 gearbox does not have a drain plug because these gearboxes are filled for live and there is no oil change interval.

To drain the older IB5 gearboxes completely you have to take a driveshaft out of the gearbox. Thanks so I may be having to pull the drive shaft then because I don't want to mix oils.

ford ib5 gearbox oil

I imagined pulling the old selector seal would just empty it out. It's weird cos I seen a video of somebody taking a bolt out further down from the filler and it all drained out. The bolt on the bottom of this pic. That is not just a bolt but the locking bolt of the selector shaft.

I have seen before that people who used this bolt to drain the gearbox ended up disassembling the gearbox because they could not get the bolt back in because parts of the selector mechanism came loose inside the gearbox. Personally I would not use this locking bolt to drain the gearbox. Ford does not prescribe any method to drain the gearbox because it is considered to be filled for life. However my personal experience is that the easiest way to drain the IB5 box without any risk is by removing a driveshaft.

Well thank God you said that or I would if went ahead and done it that way. I might just try a Syphon tube. Done the selector seal and drained and filled up today was some learning curve.

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Recommended Posts. Posted February 3, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Posted February 7, Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topicThe Quaife QKE38Z 5-speed sequential gearkit retains the stock IB5 clutch, differential, driveshafts and mounts for a simple and affordable assembly. Designed to dramatically improve the levels of performance available thanks to its quick-shifting properties, QKE38Z is an ideal product for motorsport and fast road applications.

Practicality was addressed by the firm sticking with a 5-door only format, along with interestingly, an estate. The current Focus RS was launched to great fanfare in early and has been powered by the 2. Producing bhp with power being sent to all four wheels, the RS can undertake the mph sprint in just 4. Key features include: Five straight-cut, close-ratio gears with motorsport suited final drive ratios. Ultra fast sequential gearshift with drum style change mechanism. Open face dog design ensuring positive sequential shift.

Retains stock Ford IB5 clutch, diff, driveshafts and mounts.

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Optional LED digital gear position indicator. Optional heavy duty input shaft for high horse power. Includes a new transmission housing, sequential gear lever and cable. Uses standard Ford IB5 bellhousing, not supplied. Key features include: Gearkit reuses original bellhousing from gearbox.

Drum style shift mechanism for fast reliable gear changes. Retains OEM clutch, differential, driveshafts and mounts. Optional Quaife ATB differential. Strengthened outer casing. Choice of straight cut or helical gears. New generation of gearchange mechanism allows fitment into front or rear wheel drive configurations.

Compatible with flat shift systems. Includes Oil Temperature Sensor. Supplied with either a lever and cable or air actuator. Visit the Quaife Shop to view and purchase Quaife Ford products. Click here to shop now.Recently Asked Questions Do motorbike engines need warming up before setting off? Which small SUVs do you recommend the most?

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FORD FIESTA IB5 GEARBOX OIL SEAL SET .

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Coronavirus: How can I tax my car during the coronavirus outbreak? Sun 10 Feb 1. Advice needed on changing gearbox oil manual on stated car. I take it there is a drain plug and a filler plug Also what type of oil to use am guessing at fully synth and box capacity?By toneNovember 7, in Ford Fiesta Club.

My Fiesta has now done 30k miles and I'm looking to change the gearbox oil. The dealer informs me that its sealed for life. As we know no oil lasts forever, so I'm wondering has anybody done this or had it done.

I wouldn't be surprised if Ford haven't fitted them. I was told by the dealer that the gearbox was more or less sealed for life as well. My car is at 25k and 2nd gear keeps popping out on the over-run so this is why they couldnt fix it My gearbox started popping out of gear, only AFTER getting it looked at for baulky gear-changes, so I think they tinkered with the cables at the front black box on the gearbox, where the oil level plug hides.

My mechanic sucked the oil out via the reverse switch-hole, using small-bore plastic piping, coupled to an old-fashioned Diesel fuel-priming pump bulb, which has 2 one-way valves in it, and needs a lot of squeezing, as it is NOT a syphon. Refilling showed that I got almost all out, by the time overflow came out the level hole near the rubber bellows protecting the gear cables.

ford ib5 gearbox oil

Gear-changing was instantly slick and quiet-running, with final-drive on the overrun being the only noise still present. The Castrol website still lists their oil as the spec. I did a search on this site, and found trade info, to the effect that Ford had down-specc'd their oil standards, but with our low winter temperatures, I need very good pour-point in sub-zero temperatures, and SMX-S can't be beaten, and GL5 oil is not good for helping synchro-cones work,--just too damned slippy,-- some friction needed there!

The performance of the oil proves all.

Ford Type IB5 FWD gearbox

Yes, my IB5 'box in my Sept '58 Fiesta 1. They use an allen-key to dip-check the level, and that is what my local mechanic did after rapidly filling the 'box to brief overflow, followed by a settling period, then careful topping up to the tip of the "L" shaped key.

The dealer had the car during a mild spell, with 13 deg C ambient Temp. In my home town, miles north of Inverness my dealer's locationdaily morning starts are more likely to be 2 Deg C. Yesterday at 4 pm the temp. Obviously, checking the car's 'box at 13 Deg C, is useless for a baulkiness that is OK when warm, but the proper Castrol SMX-S fully synthetic oil suits the extreme cold much better, as you can appreciate if you look at the cold pour-point spec.

Thanks for the update, I'll be inspecting the little black box region this next week with rubber tube in hand etc. Opie are not too far from me so I'll have to be paying them a visit.

Do we know what the capacity of the box is. The poly-pipe I used is 9mm in dia. This red poly-pipe fitted fairly nicely down thro' the gears, via the largish hole that you get access to when you have unscrewed the reverse gear sensor switch I presume you pull the electric flyer lead off it before unscrewing it. The mechanic stoppen a few times, to flatten the pipe a bit, to get it to squeeze further past more gears, with more force applied.

The prime was lost a few times, but was regained. The Synthetic Castrol SMX-S, was then squeezed in rapidly, via the top-up hole near the gear selectors, until some overflow began. The reverse sensor and lead were refitted, then the allen-key dip-stick was used, and careful small topups made, until oil was 1cm below the bottom of the top-up hole.

Refit the plug and the plastic boxing, after cleaning surplus oil. His initial level check was the full 1cm below the overflow. The 'box was cold, and so was the used oil and the new.

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I used this post to change my gearbox oil on my school car which had approx 72k on the clock,definitely the gears felt more rough then my mk6 so changing oil was a must. Make sure the oil is 1cm below from the top of gearbox which gets put in from the reverse switch.

As i must of done 1. As i have now topped it up car has over 75k and runs soo smooth its unbelievable.You are not logged in. As above anyone know how to do change it or even better a how to guide? I'll have a go at answering it. I asked a Ford specialist garage to change my gearbox oil, but they were very reluctant so I looked into changing it myself.

ford ib5 gearbox oil

Haven't done it yet on my but have researched it, and I'll be changing the gearbox oil on a Transit van soon. This is what I understand we have to do for our cars You'll need 3x 1 Litre bottles capacity is 2. Get the oil warm but not hot to help it drain out.

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Take off the plastic cover that covers where the gear selector goes into the gearbox. It's on the front towards the nearside wheel. The plastic cover is held on by about five clips that unclip by hand. Most of them are easy to get at from underneath. Once you've uinclipped it, you can see that the cover clips onto another plastic part that is held on by bolts I think.

You can leave this on when changing the oil, but if you do the oil will run onto it as it drains which could be messy. Probably better to remove it but I wouldn't say essential. There's two bolts under the cover related to the oil - filler on top and drain lower down. Not sure but I think one is an Allen key bolt and the other is a Hex bolt.

Make sure you can loosen off the filler plug before removing the drain plug. Get the oil catch tray ready to catch the oil and remove the drain plug fully to drain the oil. Try to move the bolt out of the way quickly once it has been extracted to the end of the threads so that your hand doesn't get covered in oil.

Keep the drain plug safe so it doesn't get lost.

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